MMM 2015, Day 16: Liola Patterns’ Luna top, in muslin and adapted for knits

Me-Made-May, day 16! 

Saturdays during Me-Made-May are wild-card days, I get to sew whatever I want! This is the second Luna top I’ve made, the first one was a muslin made as part of pattern testing for Liola Patterns. For the second version, I decided to adapt it for knits, as I wanted to have something cozy to thrown on for walking puppy in cooler weather. I love love love love love it! The colour, the drape, the fit, I love all of it:

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Here’s the muslin made as part of the pattern testing:

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Wearable, but with flaws. The sleeves were a bit too snug, and I didn’t account for my massive swayback (see pooling above my butt), both issues were fixed for the knit version. Read on…

Pattern & Instructions

The Luna is available as a PDF download, 24 pages to print. The instructions are fantastic, and there are enough illustrations to guide you through the process. In short, you’re piecing together contrasting panels on the front, and then on the back:

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Afterwards, sew front to back, add sleeves, and hem bottom. Yep, looks complicated, but if you follow the instructions it’s pretty straight-forward.

Garment Alterations:

Swayback was my biggest issue, there was way too much fabric pooling into my lower back. Luckily, the inserts at the back of the top are up high enough that taking out some of the length in this area doesn’t mess with the overall contracting fabrics design. I pinned out the extra fabric, measured it, and cut it out of the pattern piece:

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As for using knits, mine was a medium weight, so I adjusted as with yesterday’s top. Add to armscye, take in at shoulder and side seams.

Final Thoughts

I’d make this again for sure, maybe even give it a go in a heavier ponte for winter time 🙂

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MMM 2015, Day 15: Sorbetto, adapted for knits + sleeves

Me-Made-May, day 15!

More catching up, this is what I wore last Friday. Fridays during Me-Made-May are Sorbetto days, a free PDF download from Colette Patterns, featuring bust darts, bound neckline and armholes, and a box pleat detail down the front. This version has been adapted for knits:

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Pattern & Instructions, Garment Assembly – see this post from the start of Me-Made-May.

Garment Alterations:

To accommodate for the stretch in knits, I modified the ease in a few places.

I added a little extra to the armscye:

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I trimmed a little off the sides and shoulder seams:

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I also added sleeves:

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Final Thoughts:

If you’ve done a muslin already, the Sorbetto takes about an hour or two to make. Nothin’ fancy, but super comfy…

MMM 2015, Day 14: Pencil skirt drafted into an A-line, in a loud and obnoxious knit print

Me-Made-May, day 14!

Whew, the last week has been pretty busy, so I’m slowly clearing out the backlog of projects posts for Me-made-May. Thursdays during Me-Made-May are a time to explore variations on the pencil skirt. Today I’m wearing an A-line version of the pencil skirt, with a waistband:

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The fabric is actually kinda hideous, but I think it works as a skirt, paired with a solid black top.

Garment Assembly & Alterations:

The construction was quite simple: take the front and back pieces of any basic pencil skirt pattern, and simply cut them on an incline as shown below, to form an “A”-line skirt:

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You’ll notice I cut inside the lines towards the top of the skirt – I was using a knit fabric, so taking it in a bit in this area ensured it would sit snugly around my hips. I sewed up the sides, and then cut a long strip of fabric for the band. I sewed the around the top, then folded it over to the inside and hand-basted it to the inside skirt top:

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Final thoughts:

Quick, simple. Kinda hideous, but I’m ok with that.

MMM 2015, Day 13: simple knit dress, with double darts

Me-Made-May, day 13! Wednesdays during Me-Made-May were supposed to be variations on Burda’s Princess Seam Dress #138 09/2014, but I kinda gave up on the pattern last week. The muslin needs to be redone, and honestly, that style is probably more suitable for fall. So today, I’m showing a piece I finished a while back but never blogged about. It’s a rendition of By Hand London’s Anna dress. Apparenyly, I’m a moron, because I didn’t realize it was available as a pdf download, and didn’t want to wait for a paper pattern to be shipped overseas. Turns out its ONLY available as a pdf. Mine’s definitely not as nice, but it will do for now! FullSizeRender-49 FullSizeRender-47

As with most of my dresses, I kept a centre back seam down the back of the dress even though this was a stretchy knit fabric, to allow for a swayback adjustment. Worked pretty well, decent fit:

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Pattern & Instructions: I can’t outline the exact steps I used to draft the pattern, but here’s the basic gist. I used my basic top and skirt sloper for knits. I added double darts to both the top under bust, and skirt. See line drawing below. I kept taking the darts in on the top until the fit was nice and snug under the bust. I sewed darts in the skirt, so that they lined up with the darts in the top.

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Final thoughts: I like it, but need to buy the Anna. I have Anna-envy, check out these to see what I mean…

MMM 2015, Day 12: Butterick 5951, in floral print

Me-Made-May, day 12!

I didn’t get to post yesterday, but here’s Tuesday’s garment. Tuesdays during Me-Made-May are Butterick 5951 days, a cute dress with front shoulder and under-bust rucking. Last week, I made the pattern into a top, using knit fabric. For today’s version, I made dress view A, using what I believe is a crepe de chine. Whatever fabric it is, it’s light and flowy, and I love the colours, kind of like stained glass on a black background…

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Pattern & Instructions, Garment Assembly & Alterationssee this post

Check the back and side views, the fit on my swayback is pretty good (the hollow dip between my back and backside), I’m pleased. Love the skirt, I don’t usually care for A-line skirts, but this one sits nicely off my hips.

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 Final thoughts:

What a great sumer dress! Nice enough to wear to work, and breezy enough to keep me cool on hot summer days…

MMM 2015, Day 11: New Look 6123 faux wrap dress, in knit print

Me-Made-May, day 11!

Mondays in Me-Made-May are all about variations on New Look 6123, a lovely dress with options for a 1-piece or crossover bodice, and plain or side-gathered skirt, with an optional side flounce. I adapted the pattern for medium-stretch knits in order to stash-bust a bit. Today’s version is the faux wrap top, and skirt with side ruching:

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Overall, I’m happy. I added 1.5″ length to the front and back bodice, and raised the heckling by 1″ (I don’t like showing too much cleave at work).

Pattern & Instructions, Garment Assembly Alterations – see last week’s post

Final Thoughts:

Another comfy dress for work, I’m happy. I’ll be making another 2 of these as the pattern is very versatile…

MMM 2015, Day 10: Hungarian embroidery – Róza peasant top, with red/blue Palóc design

Me-Made-May, day 10!

Sundays during Me-Made-May are Hungarian embroidery days, and today is another version of the Róza top, also featured last week. The embroidery used for this version is my rendition of a traditional Palóc design, from northern Hungary. I’ve provided the pattern below, should you want to give it a try!

Here’s a link to more images of Palóc embroidery.

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Embroidery Pattern:

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Palóc Design, SeaminglySensationalSewing

Garment Assembly and Alterations – see last week’s post.

This version is a cross between both options provided with the pattern – I used the centre square piece to embroider on, but decided to finish the centre front with a straight piece of fabric instead of the fuller option.

Thread used = DMC666, DMC825

Final Thoughts:

Happy, happy, happy!!!