MMM 2015, Day 7: Perfect pencil skirt, with pleated front overlay

Me-Made-May, day 7!

Thursdays during Me-Made-May are a time to explore variations on the pencil skirt. Today I’m wearing a piece I started about a year ago, but for whatever reason it ended up in a heap of UFOs (Unfinished Objects). It’s a basic pencil skirt, with a folded overlay across the front. The fit’s a bit off, because my body shape has changed a bit since I first sewed the skirt, but I did wear it today nonetheless.

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Pattern & Instructions:

To draft the overlay piece, lay our your skirt front piece and trace out one edge – including the dart – onto drafting paper (or right onto your fabric, if you’re daring). See blue lines below. Next, you’ll need to extend the width of the overlay piece by width +1/2, so if your skirt is 24″ wide, your overlay will be 24 + 12 = 36″. This forms your outermost waistline. Next, draw a curved line from the outermost waistline all the way down to the overlay’s bottom edge. See red lines. Cut from your fabric, and follow assembly instructions below.


Garment Assembly:

(1) hem the curved line of the overlay, (2) create a couple of folds in the overlay as desired, and baste in place (I created 2 folds for my skirt), (3) baste the overlay to the front skirt piece at the top and side, (3) finish following whatever instructions came with your skirt pattern, (5) once completed, gently press overlay folds and tack in place with a few stitches if desired.

For the folds, it doesn’t matter if the overlay reaches across the entire waistline, or stops a little ways from the outer edge, like mine. And if you find adding an extra 1/2 width makes the overlay too full, simply trim some width away, and place your folds again to see how it looks.

Final Thoughts:

I think it’s worth making again, I like the style, next time I’ll use my current pencil skirt sloper so the fit is just perfect.



One thought on “MMM 2015, Day 7: Perfect pencil skirt, with pleated front overlay

  1. Nice job! I’ve been wanting to make a skirt like this for a while, maybe I’ll finally get around to it this May…

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