How to draft a back flounce for pencil skirts…

me-made-March day 10!

A couple of years ago I started playing around with the idea of flounces on skirts – on one side, at the back, etc. I ended up drafting a pencil skirt with a flounce inserted at the back, just below the bum. The flounce ripples and undulates around my calves when I walk, it’s quite nice and I’ve worn it a lot.

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So turns out there’s a pattern for the skirt, but I’ll give you the instructions I used to draft it by hand on my own. Who knows, maybe I saw the collection and picked up the idea from there, or it’s just a happy coincidence that Vogue 1296 is essentially the same design.

V1296 

In any case, take a look at the instructions I used for drafting a skirt flounce by hand, it’s actually fairly simple…

1. Choose your favorite pencil skirt pattern, and grab some pattern drafting paper.

2. Imagine what you want your skirt with the added flounce to look like – specifically how large and full you want your flounce to be. For my project, I ended up following very similar lines as the Vogue version, in that my flounce point started just below the bum and extended around a bit to the front piece of the skirt. Make copies of your skirt pattern pieces on drafting paper, you need this extra copy since you’ll be cutting them up to draft the flounce.

3. Lay the front pattern piece next to the back piece at the side seams (pic on left, below). Use a pencil and ruler to draw the cutting line where your flounce will go (pic in middle). Cut the pieces away from the pattern and put aside (pic on right). Go ahead and cut the newly drafted front and back pattern pieces from your fashion fabric.

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4. Now tape the two remaining pieces together (pic on left, below).

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The centre line now needs to be moved out, this will add extra fabric into the flounce to give it body (blue line/arrows). Add a little extra length to the centre line (purple line extended down from the blue line, about 1.5-2″). And finally, round out the bottom of the flounce (purple line/arrows). IMPORTANT: add a seam allowance to the entire piece.

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The new centre line should be cut from your fashion fabric on the fold:

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5. Now to assemble you skirt.

– sew the back pieces together at the centre, and insert your zipper

– sew the front piece to the back piece

– sew in one side of the flounce, starting from the top of the flounce’s centre point

– sew in the other side of the flounce, also starting from the top of the flounce’s centre point

– hem the skirt bottom and flounce

Posted on Burda

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