Burda 02/2014 #137: sectioned tee in grey sweaterknit

me-made-March day 1!

The pattern is published in Burda magazine and online, difficulty level is novice – a great project for someone starting off with knits. It is a plus-sized pattern, but if you’re smaller it seems fairly easy to downsize, just take out width in the middle of each pattern piece until you get something that resembles the width of your favourite loose top. I cut a size too large, for sure. Next time, I’ll remove 1″ out of the neckline, and a couple of inches from the waistband – way too loose for my liking. But otherwise, the pattern is great, really easy to put together…

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Here’s the line drawing:

tech_137_large

Sadly, a few things went awry:

1 – I didn’t follow the guideline for direction of grain when cutting my fabric. I had so little fabric to work with, I just cut willy-nilly. As a result, the neckline was really stretchy and I worried it was too floppy, the shirt just didn’t have a nice shape when I first tried it on for fit. This probably wouldn’t have been an issue if I’d been working with a sturdier knit, but I wasn’t. I fixed the issue by sewing bias binding across the neckline, turning it inwards, and topstitching to keep in place. voila, problem solved! The bias binding gave the neckline structure and sturdiness, and the inset triangles still allowed for some stretch when pulling it over my head.

2 – I didn’t follow the instructions, well kinda not. Even though my fabric didn’t fray, I decided to finish the seam allowances inside the top with an overcasting stitch, trying to be all professional and such. Nice idea, but the instructions didn’t call for it, and the bulkier finished shoulder seams made it harder to topstitch around the triangular insets. My sewing line wasn’t straight, and I was using a lighter grey thread, it was really noticeable.

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Alas, downgraded to a wearable muslin for weekends. No big deal, still a good first crack at the pattern. The shirt is comfy, I foresee making several more in various fabrics and perhaps even altered to be a bit snugger in some. All-in-all, a good pattern and cute top…

Posted on Burda

Posted on pattern review.com

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